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Division Propagation

dnaoodb: professional biology database , biology encyclopedia

The Division Propagation is mostly used for flowering shrubs with strong clusters and perennial flowers with strong sprouting power. It is a simple method of propagating flowers and trees, with high survival rate and fast seedling growth. Peony, asparagus, peony, wintersweet, clivia, orchid, hosta, iris, etc. are often propagated by this method.

Scientific classification

Division Propagation,Branch Propagation


Division Propagation is a method of dividing the sprouting branches, clustering branches, sucking buds, and stolons of flowers from the mother plant, and planting them as independent new plants. It is generally applicable to perennial flowers.

Method Introduction

When dividing the plants, first remove the mother plant from the flower pot, shake off the surrounding soil, and use a sharp knife or pruning shears to cut off the underground stems connected between the leaf clusters, and then they can be divided into several plants and planted separately. The time for ramet propagation varies with the type of flowers. It is better to ramet in autumn for spring flowering, and in spring for autumn flowering.

The method is: first dig out the mud ball from the pot, throw off the soil, observe carefully, and according to the natural extension interval of the roots, take advantage of the opportunity to separate from the gap by hand or cut with a sharp knife. Each plant can only be divided into 2-3 plants. It should not be too much, and the number of separated roots and branches should be proportionate to keep the whole plant balanced and even. Prune after separation and remove rotten roots. If possible, it is also advisable to sterilize the incision with charcoal powder or sulfur powder before planting.

Because the ramets have complete roots, stems and leaves, the survival rate is very high, but the number of reproduction is limited. This method is often used for species with strong tillering power, such as wintersweet, palm bamboo, phoenix bamboo, peony, peony, orchid, evergreen, hosta and so on. In addition, such as small plants produced on stolons such as Chlorophytum, saxifrage, etc., Jingtian in succulent plants, stone lotus and other base sucking buds (twigs), and the lower part naturally takes root. These young plants can be separated and planted at any time. .

In addition, there is also the method of dividing bulbs. Bulbous flowers are usually propagated by dividing bulbs. This method is based on the natural proliferation of bulbs, and the newly formed bulbs from the parent body-bulbs, bulbs, tubers and rhizomes are planted separately, such as bulbs. Gladiolus, rhizomes of canna, iris, bulbs of narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, etc., as well as the tuberous roots of dahlias, can be dug up after dormancy to reproduce.


ramet time

For deciduous flowers and trees, ramet propagation should be carried out during the dormant period. In the south, it can be carried out after the leaves fall in autumn. In the north, it should be carried out before the soil thaws in spring and before germination. For evergreen flowers and trees, it is mostly carried out in winter in the south, and in spring in the north. Back and forth.

Take orchids as an example

Orchids need a lot of water during the vigorous growth period from May to August; excessive drying during branching is very unfavorable to the growth of plants, and new shoots and new roots are very tender, so the operation of branching is very inconvenient. bruised.

The more suitable time for branch propagation is the dormant period of orchids, usually from March to April before the new buds are unearthed and from September to October after the orchids stop growing.

Varieties that bloom in early spring should be divided into pots after the flowers have bloomed. The species that bloom in summer and autumn are best divided into pots in early spring.

Preparations before branching

① For the convenience of operation when dividing the plants, the pot soil can be properly dried before dividing the plants. Make the roots whitish and produce inconspicuous withering, so that the brittle and easily broken fleshy roots become soft, and the roots will not be damaged too much when dividing plants and cutting pots. ③ Cultivation soil, broken tiles, broken bricks, coarse sand, various orchid pots, scissors, etc. should be prepared before starting work.

Division method

For outdoor flowers and trees, dig out the mother plant cluster from the flowerbed before dividing the plants (with as many fibrous roots as possible), and then split the entire plant cluster into several clusters with a sharp knife, each cluster has 3~5 branch buds and more root system. Some flowering shrubs and vines with strong germination ability often germinate many young clusters around the mother plant. When dividing the plants, it is not necessary to dig the mother plant, only the tiller seedlings are excavated and planted separately.

Before dividing the potted flowers, take the mother plant out of the pot, shake off most of the soil, find out the extension direction of each sprouting root system, separate the knotted roots, and then use a sharp knife to connect the tiller seedlings with the mother plant The root neck of the root is divided, and the pot is planted immediately after cutting.

After watering, put it under the shade for maintenance. The time of ramets is generally carried out in conjunction with changing pots in spring. In addition, the rhizosphere of Shuitahua often breeds sucking buds, which can be dug in early spring and planted separately. Many rooted asexual buds are often produced on the edge of the leaves, which can also be picked for propagation. Chlorophytum, saxifrage, etc., often produce small plants on their own stems, which can be cut and planted.

Take potted orchids as an example

First, use the five fingers of your left hand to reach into the orchid seedlings close to the surface of the pot, hold the pot soil firmly, turn the pot upside down with your right hand, and gently tap the surroundings of the pot to separate the pot soil from the pot, and then use your right hand to grasp the hole at the bottom of the pot. Gently lift the pot to separate the pot from the soil. Then place the orchid seedlings and potting soil flat to prevent the soil stack from suddenly breaking apart and causing the orchid root system to break. Then carefully pat the pile of soil to loosen it, and gradually shake off the old pot soil. Handle the pseudobulbs without shoots carefully so as not to injure the leaves and shoots. Cut off the withered and yellow leaves, the rotten buds on the pseudobulbs and the old roots that have rotted in the air. However, the pseudobulb leaves with new buds should be kept as much as possible, otherwise, the new buds will grow slowly and small. The pseudobulbs whose leaves have completely fallen off should also be cut off, and can also be used as propagation material if necessary. If the potting soil has not been dried and is too humid before dividing into pots, the roots of the seedlings should be washed with clean water and dried, and then cleaned and trimmed when the roots turn white and soft.

The selection of plant seedlings is to clean up the larger clusters of plants, find out the place where the two pseudobulbs are wide apart and easy to loosen when shaken by hand, commonly known as "road", and cut them with sharp scissors. It is best to apply dust or sulfur powder to the cut sun to prevent rot caused by wound infection. Take care that both cut pseudobulbs have new shoots; each can develop into a new plant independently. Each part that has been cut should have at least 3 pseudobulbs, too few are unfavorable to the growth of new buds; it is also not easy to bloom.